In the past, I’ve often written about watches that are well known and widely circulated in China, in order to get closer to the real needs of most players. Today I would like to write about a watch at the top of the “pyramid”, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar (breaking the world record) and the winner of this year’s GPHG The Golden Hand Prize at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. It is a watch destined to be won by only a few.
By coincidence, I got my hands on an replica Audemars Piguet watches Royal Oak Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar a while back, and it’s very thin, according to official figures. The thickness is only 6.3mm. In other words, the two stacked together are not as thick as the Rolex Water Ghost.
What’s most interesting to me as I delve into the details of this watch is that Audemars Piguet wasn’t trying to break any world records in the first place. Audemars Piguet simply wanted to make a wearable perpetual calendar watch and used a variety of the latest technologies in its research and development, and as a result did The “accidental” world first (world’s thinnest perpetual calendar).The Royal Oak is familiar to all of you, but what you may not know is that the perpetual calendar is one of Audemars Piguet’s greatest complications. It has been suggested that the world’s first perpetual calendar watch was introduced by Audemars Piguet in 1955. This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra Thin Perpetual Calendar is based on the previous 2018 Royal Oak RD#2 Extra Thin Perpetual Calendar Concept Watch On top of that, the mass-produced model was introduced.
How did Audemars Piguet manage to make the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar the “thinnest in the world”?
There are many perpetual calendars on the market, and many brands have branded their perpetual calendars with the name “Ultra-thin”, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar. Maestro. But in fact, perpetual calendar watches, although many brands make them, are not easy to make thin. It’s because a perpetual calendar watch is a perpetual calendar module added to a regular movement. To make a perpetual calendar thin, you need to thin both the bottom movement and the top perpetual calendar module.Audemars Piguet takes on the perpetual calendar module first. The regular perpetual calendar module consists of a multi-layered structure, and as per the method of making an ultra-thin watch, the focus was to take the multi-layered structure and turn it into one layer (each) (Brand ultra-thin watches are all based on this design idea). Regular perpetual calendars have a 3-tier structure, such as a flat leap year and a 24-hour/day/night display, all stacked on top of each other. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar features two important improvements to the perpetual calendar module: the use of a date gear with a special notch ( (The new design notch serves to drive the months forward), replacing the previous date cam; secondly, the 48 months of the perpetual calendar’s core The program wheel was redesigned to reduce the thickness to that of a single layer of gears. Audemars Piguet has since moved away from using perpetual calendar modules and has instead integrated the perpetual calendar components directly into the lower movement. thereby reducing thickness.
The foundation of the Royal Oak Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar is the Audemars Piguet 2120 ultra-thin automatic movement. In 1967, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the famous 920 ultra-thin automatic movement, a caliber used by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and the Royal Oak. Use (some sources say that Jaeger-LeCoultre developed the 920 movement with the support of PP, VC and AP). The Patek Philippe version is the 28-255 movement, the Vacheron Constantin version is the 1120 movement, and the Audemars Piguet version is the 2120 movement In 2000, Audemars Piguet acquired the equipment and drawings for the 920 calibre, and has since produced the 2120 calibre in-house. The movement is only 2.89 mm thick after fusing the perpetual calendar components (calibre 5133 for the fused perpetual calendar). With an oscillating frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour and a power of 40 hours, a major technical feature is the use of an orbital rotor, an automatic rotor on a Running on track.
Looking at the plate of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Slim Perpetual Calendar, you can see a few differences from the usual perpetual calendar watch in the plate layout. At the top 12 o’clock is the moon phase, at the bottom 9 o’clock is the day of the week and a small day/night indicator, and at 3 o’clock is the day of the week. It’s the month dial and the small flat leap year display, with the date dial at the bottom 6 o’clock of the dial. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is unique in that the day/night and leap year displays are made into separate subdials, while many perpetual calendars have a date and leap year display with a date disc at the bottom 6 o’clock. Usually they are put together with the day of the week and month discs in a coaxial layout, stacked on top of each other (e.g. Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5140). , 5327). This layout of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar is the result of the aforementioned transformation of the traditional multi-layered perpetual calendar components into the The single-layer layout, thus laying out each function display separately, eliminates stacking between functions to reduce thickness.
In terms of the case, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Slimline Perpetual Calendar maintains the classic style of the Royal Oak and the Royal Oak 15400/1800. 15500, 15202 Consistent. Royal Oak Slim Perpetual Calendar measures 41mm, 6.3mm thick, titanium case and bracelet body, bezel and bracelet mid links It is platinum. The titanium part of it is mostly brushed and the platinum part is polished. The matte titanium case contrasts with the polished platinum ring, which is bright and conspicuous. The back of the watch shows the movement through the case, which is well-polished and decorated, and uses a skeletonized rotor with an AP Logo.